Oct 13,2016
In this irregular series, food culture researcher Kiyoshi Aya describes the local delicacies and ways of life she has encountered in different places throughout Japan.
After summer’s peak has waned and the first cool winds are felt, you may catch sight of crowds of people spreading out straw mats and enjoying imotaki stew on the banks of the Hiji River, which flows through Ozu, Ehime. In this article, Kiyoshi teaches us about imotaki, without which autumn in Ozu is unthinkable.
“Imotaki is an autumn riverbank tradition in Ozu. The stew consists of mounds of taro, abura-age [deep-fried tofu pouches], konjac, green onions, shiitake mushrooms, chicken, and other ingredients simmered in a large pot with carefully prepared chicken-bone broth, soy sauce, and sugar. Hundreds of people gather to enjoy imotaki in the same way others would enjoy a barbecue or cherry blossom viewing party. These events are often held in conjunction with moon viewing.”
The tradition began back in the Edo period (1603 to 1868) with a riverbank event called O-komori, at which people deepened their social ties while eating taro simmered in an ayu sweetfish broth following community meetings. In 1966, efforts began to market the event as a tourist attraction, with local restaurants (registered to serve imotaki) setting up venues to serve the hearty stew. Since then, it has turned into a famous autumn dish that tourists can easily join in and enjoy.
“Taro is a local Ozu crop. And for imotaki, the rustic sticky variety known as natsuimo [literally, summer potato], which doesn’t lose its shape even when simmered, is essential. The broth, made with sugar and soy sauce with the mild sweetness unique to the Nanyo region, tastes like a slightly sweeter version of Kansai-style udon broth. The broth is extremely delicious on its own and goes perfectly with natsuimo. Locals look forward to it so much that when they first see natsuimo appear in the markets, they sense that imotaki season has come around again and their mouths water with the flavor of imotaki.”
These days, imotaki has spread beyond the banks of the Hiji River to neighboring areas such as Matsuyama. It is so well established that supermarkets in Ehime display imotaki banners and sell the ingredients. Making imotaki at home is also popular, with each household adding its own twist, such as quail eggs, to the basic recipe.
Ozu has been dubbed Iyo’s Little Kyoto, and its streets, which still retain the castle town’s charm, are popular with tourists
“Many local delicacies that were well known decades ago have faded from memory and young people today cannot make them. However, this is not the case with imotaki, which is not only delicious but also fun and entertaining to eat outdoors and a source of delight for many people. I think it’s an endearing custom to enjoy local flavors while admiring the moon amid a night breeze on the way home from school or work. I hope imotaki will continue to be passed on as a custom and a delicacy loved by the local people.”
food culture researcher
food culture researcher
food culture researcher and Secretary of the Research Division at the National Council for Washoku Culture
Born in Osaka prefecture, Kiyoshi is involved in researching traditional regional Japanese cuisine and the dietary habits in fishing and farming communities as well as writing and giving lectures about local foods.
Recent publications include Washoku Techo [Washoku Handbook] (co-author, published by Shibunkaku), Furusato no Tabemono [Hometown Food] (Washoku Culture Booklet No. 8) (co-author, published by Shibunkaku), and Shoku no Chizu [Maps of Food], Third Edition (published by Teikoku-Shoin).
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