Culinary Expert Iwaki Misaki on Her Love of Miso
May 14,2020
Culinary expert Iwaki Misaki is fascinated by miso; indeed, she’s visited more than sixty miso fermenting warehouses all over Japan. She devotes herself to disseminating the culture associated with this traditional Japanese condiment. To that end she runs a website entitled Miso Legwork, which posts real-time information on miso from various locations. She has also created the Gachi Miso series—miso made the old-fashioned way in wooden barrels.
Miso is a staple of the Japanese dining table in such forms as miso soup. But surprisingly few people have an accurate knowledge of miso’s history, the types of miso, and how miso is classified.
“You see miso in a completely new light when you observe firsthand how dedicated producers are to their craft,” says Misaki. The more you get to know about miso, the more fascinating it becomes. We asked her what makes it so magical.
Misaki’s fascination with miso has spurred her to visit miso warehouses all over Japan.
Misaki describes herself as a hands-on culinary expert. She believes in giving everything a try and relying on her own eyes, ears, and first-hand experience. Her decision to pursue a culinary career was rooted in her own experience as well.
“I suffered from anorexia, bulimia, and seriously dry skin in my teens. That experience woke me up to the importance of diet. Changing my diet improved my physical condition, which made me realize that you are what you eat.”
Culinary expert and longtime miso lover Iwaki Misaki
In her quest for healthier foods, Misaki became eager to learn more about the traditional condiments indispensable to Japanese cuisine. She developed an especial interest in miso, which had been little explored by the gastronomic community at the time. To acquire an accurate knowledge of the subject, she inaugurated her own “Miso Legwork” tours, visiting miso fermenting warehouses all over Japan. In the four years since, she has made over 110 visits to 61 miso warehouses.
“I’ve learned a lot more about the magic of miso since launching Miso Legwork. All misos may look alike, but each has its own distinctive character depending on where it’s made, the idiosyncrasies of the artisans making it, and the ingredients they insist on using. The more warehouses you visit, the more you realize the importance of exploring such background factors.”
Misaki’s fridge is full of misos from all over Japan. “I always get excited when I come across an unusual variety of miso,” she says.
Moved to tears by the sanctity of a miso warehouse
Misaki says she had one experience on her Miso Legwork tours that she will never forget. That was when she visited Inoue Jyozo, a traditional miso maker in Nagano dating back to the Meiji period.
“I was given special permission to enter the fermenting warehouse, which nobody but members of the family had been in for six years. The aroma of miso pervaded the crystal-clear air, and I found myself overwhelmed by the sanctity of the place. Though I couldn’t see the many microbes that must have been there, I could feel their presence. When I stepped outside again, I couldn’t stop crying. That experience is what convinced me to dedicate my life to visiting fermenting warehouses. It made me want to learn more about miso.”
Inoue Jyozo miso, which has special meaning for Misaki
Misaki wanted to act as a bridge between producers and consumers, a desire that grew only stronger as she visited different miso warehouses and saw firsthand the dedication of producers to their craft.
“When I was giving cooking classes, students would often say to me, ‘Miso tastes good and it’s good for you, but I’m not really sure how to use it for anything else but miso soup.’ No matter how wonderful a product is, no one’s going to buy it if they don’t know how to use it. And if it’s not consumed, it won’t survive into the future. By telling people about the dedication that goes into making the product, and suggesting ways to use it in their cooking, I hope to act as a bridge between producers and consumers.”
A desire to change perceptions of miso
That ambition came to fruition in February 2020 with the publication of Misaki’s book The Textbook of Miso, the Miraculous Fermented Condiment (in Japanese). “Miso is a familiar ingredient to anybody who lives in Japan. Just think of miso soup, the quintessential Japanese food. But I suspect that surprisingly few people really know about miso and its varieties and characteristics. When I first started studying the subject, I was surprised at how little material there was available explaining such matters in plain language.
“The book is packed with information. Besides featuring recipes made with miso, it goes through the classification of miso—which is not as well known as you might think—and the health benefits you can expect to get from eating it. It also has details on producers all over Japan. I hope that anyone who reads it comes away with a better understanding of miso and a true affection for it.”
The miso recipes featured in the book run the culinary gamut, from Japanese to Western to Chinese. There are even desserts. All are a cinch to prepare and can be made with common kitchen ingredients.
Miso cookies, which are featured in the book. Made without eggs or milk. The faint flavor of miso lends them a nostalgic taste.
“Miso is an all-purpose seasoning that can be used in a host of dishes. I hope that young people and people who have never been interested in miso will have a look at the book as well. I want to change people’s perceptions of miso. I want them to realize how fascinating, fun, and somehow endearing miso is.”
The magic of miso made in wooden barrels
The containers used in miso making these days are typically made of fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP). Less than 1 percent of the miso produced in Japan is made the old-fashioned way using wooden barrels. Misaki has been working to bring this rare form of miso, which she refers to as gachi or “serious” miso, to a wider audience.
“Of course, you can made decent-tasting miso with FRP containers as well. But when miso is made in wooden barrels, microbes attach themselves to the gaps between the staves, giving the miso a flavor and aroma unique to the warehouse where it was fermented. That’s the magic of miso made in wooden barrels: it reveals each warehouse’s distinctive character. To make this artisanal miso more readily available to enjoy, I created the Gachi Miso series, which is sold commercially in a small size handy for everyday use. The package is designed to make the type, color, and flavor of miso inside obvious at a glance: white miso, yellow miso, red miso, barley miso, soybean miso, or whatever.”
The Gachi Miso series created by Misaki, and her miniature wooden barrel. “It’s my trusty companion,” she says. “Whenever I give a talk or presentation, I always take it with me for the sake of those who can’t picture what a wooden barrel looks like.”
“I hope that my name will one day be synonymous with miso,” Misaki continues.
“As a hands-on culinary expert, I intend to continue bringing people accurate, real-world information based on what I’ve seen with my own eyes, what I’ve been told by others I’ve met in person, and what I’ve experienced myself first-hand.”
