Tofu Meister Kudo Shiori wants to spread the word about the hidden power of tofu.
Jun 16,2022
Tofu has long been beloved of the Japanese. Whether used as a miso soup or hot pot ingredient or served chilled, it’s truly indispensable to the Japanese diet. But precisely because of its ubiquity, most Japanese hardly give a thought to its different flavors and where the soybeans from which it’s made are grown.
Neighborhood tofu shops are still found in Japan, and Tofu Meister Kudo Shiori wants to keep it that way. She devotes herself to spreading the word about the culture of eating tofu. We asked her about the magic of this wonderful food.
Eating tofu brings the world closer together.
Shiori has loved tofu ever since she was a little girl. She loves it so much, in fact, that she became a qualified Tofu Meister in her student days. Currently she tours tofu shops all over Japan giving workshops and holding events. She also writes about all things tofu.
At her workshops, Shiori tries to convey the magic of tofu in an intuitive way with handwritten fact sheets.
“I was a finicky eater when I was a child. I particularly disliked white rice, so I would eat tofu and okara (tofu lees) instead. My father was very health-conscious, and every day he would visit the local tofu shop to buy tofu. When I got up in the morning, there would invariably be freshly made tofu and soybean milk in the fridge.
“Tofu is made with just soybeans, nigari coagulant, and water, and the taste of the beans comes through loud and clear. I often ate other soybean products as well, but tofu was definitely my favorite.”
Shiori majored in intercultural communication at university, then studied abroad. When training to become a Japanese teacher, she realized something as she interacted with international students of various nationalities. Anyone of any background anywhere in the world can eat tofu.
“People can eat tofu together whether they’re Muslim or vegetarian or whatever. I originally ate tofu simply because I liked it, but I came to feel that it could bridge the gap between different countries, religions, and age groups. So I made up my mind to learn more about tofu. That’s why I became a qualified Tofu Meister.
“Once I had that qualification under my belt and got to really know tofu, eating it became more fun than ever. I wanted to share that pleasure with others. That’s how I ended up doing what I do today.”
Soybeans and tofu both display considerable regional variation.
Tofu is made from soybeans, a crop that shows great regional diversity. Domestic Japanese soybeans come in many different varieties. They can be broadly divided into recommended varieties and indigenous varieties. ‘Recommended varieties’ means varieties that the government recommends planting, as the name suggests. These are considered well adapted to the climate and soil of particular regions and suitable for processing. There are 80 to 90 such varieties.
“‘Indigenous varieties,’ on the other hand, means the soybeans historically grown in each region. There are said to be over 300 of them. They vary considerably in appearance, ranging from the light-yellow beans you usually see to green, black, or a shade of red. They have distinctive names like Sato Irazu (‘need no sugar’), Hiden (‘secret teaching’), and Shakkin Nashi (‘debt free’).
“If the soybeans used differ, then of course the flavor of the resulting tofu does too. It’s fun to pick and choose. For everyday meals, go with one of the recommended varieties, which have a straightforward taste. If you’re looking for something to match your mood, check out the indigenous varieties, which are more idiosyncratic. Neighborhood tofu shops tend to be choosy about the soybeans they use, so you get to try types of tofu found nowhere else.”
Soybeans come in many shapes and colors. Shiori keeps samples for research purposes.
What’s more, Shiori notes, tofu displays considerable regional variation in texture and how it’s eaten.
“For example, tofu produced in mountainous areas of the Hokuriku region, which receive heavy snowfall, is so firm that it retains its shape even when bound with rope during transport. Another variety of tofu well known for its firmness is shima-dofu (‘island tofu’) from Okinawa. It’s unusual in that salt is added: it was originally made using seawater.
“Conversely, soft tofu is, I suppose, best exemplified by tofu from Kyoto. In Kyoto, which has a long tradition of using dashi (stock) in cooking, calcium sulfate is typically used as the coagulant when making tofu, rather than the more usual nigari salt produced from seawater. Kyotoites like their tofu to go down smoothly, without interfering with the taste of the food.”
I want to continue supporting neighborhood tofu shops. They each have their own unique character.
Neighborhood tofu shops were once a common sight in Japan, but their numbers have steadily declined over the years. Some 500 of them disappear annually, according to Shiori, because of financial difficulties or the lack of anyone to take over the business.
“No two tofu shops are the same when it comes to their tofu. Tofu is made with just a few simple ingredients, and the flavor can’t be adjusted with seasonings. Each step in the production process therefore requires great finesse. That’s why tofu shops are so meticulous about everything from the soybeans they choose to how they mash them to the thickness of the soy milk. They each make what they consider to be the best-tasting tofu.
“I suppose you could think of it this way. The tofu mass-produced by food manufacturers is like infrastructure; that made by tofu shops is like entertainment. The future will surely be more fun if instead of eating the same old tofu day in and day out, you get to ask yourself, ‘What tofu shall I enjoy today?’ That’s why I want to help ensure that the neighborhood tofu shop survives. It’s why I hope to dedicate my life to supporting those with a passion for making tofu. While the number of tofu shops is undoubtedly in decline, about a hundred new places open every year as young people and companies in other sectors enter the business.”
One of Shiori’s favorites is shelf-stable packaged Koimaro, made in Tokushima
Great-tasting ways to eat tofu
Tofu is delicious either as it is or heated. It can also be mashed up and mixed with other ingredients. Shiori shares her suggestions on how best to enjoy it.
“When eating tofu as it is, be sure to serve it at room temperature. Let it sit for twenty minutes after removing it from the fridge. The sweetness and umami are much more pronounced than if you eat it chilled. Once you get to know the flavor profile of the tofu itself, why not come up with various combinations? If it’s sweet, serve it salted. If it has a strong aroma but a plain taste, add a garnish to spice it up.
“I eat tofu in many different forms depending on what type of tofu it is. With a firm tofu, for example, I’ll cut it into thin slices like sashimi and serve it with soy sauce mixed with wasabi. Or maybe I’ll make a tofu steak, then season it with Japanese pepper or serve it Western-style with tomatoes, olive oil, or salsa.”
Shiori says her goal is to increase footfall at tofu shops. She wants to make visiting your neighborhood tofu dealer a less intimidating experience. To that end, she works to create more opportunities to encounter local varieties of tofu at ordinary retailers and restaurants. Plus, on a non-food note, she’s also launched her own brand of tofu-themed merchandise.
Hand towels from Shiori’s Mametomi line of merchandise and her book Everyday Tofu Recipes
(published by Ikeda Publishing)
“My dream is to one day bring together tofu from all over the country under one roof and create a place where people can choose among different flavors. I’m going to keep doing my best to ensure that people everywhere can enjoy tofu in all its diversity.”
