Nukazuke Pickles: Simple Joys of Rice Bran Fermentation

Regular Japanese meals have long been enriched by many fermented foods including miso, soy sauce, vinegar, mirin rice wine, and fermented natto soybeans. Fermented foods and their umami flavorings are produced by the actions of endemic microorganisms and offer a host of benefits to the human body. Fermented foods, moreover, contain the hard-earned wisdom of our ancestors and are deserving to be passed on to future generations. In this series, we will present recipes that are easy to incorporate into today’s lifestyles while getting at the essence of fermented foods.

In Part 4, we look at nukazuke, a delicious pickling method that transforms seasonal vegetables.

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Full of lactic acid bacteria, fermented foods enrich Japan’s dining tables

People have been taking notice of nukazuke pickles recently, as they have appeared in TV dramas and other media. Nukazuke has long been a part of Japan’s food culture that has been passed down in homes from generation to generation. Today, people are looking at nukazuke again, both for its deliciousness and for its hidden health benefits.

Shioyama Nao, a lifestyle and cooking expert who maintains her own nukadoko, explains. “Nukazuke are pickles made by pickling seasonal vegetables and other ingredients in a bed of fermented rice bran called a nukadoko. There are several theories about their origin, but it is generally agreed that nukazuke came about in the Edo period (1603 to 1868) when eating white rice became commonplace. It was a clever way to reuse the bran that was produced when brown rice was polished and it helped supplement the nutrients that people were lacking.”

Rice bran is rich in minerals, such as magnesium and iron, as well as vitamins such as B1 and B6. Through fermentation, the nukadoko becomes home to plenty of lactic acid bacteria and yeast that help to regulate the gut microbiome. Not only does pickling vegetables increase their umami and aroma, it also multiples the amount of vitamin B1 and other nutrients several times over compared to eating vegetables raw.

“I started making nukazuke in earnest about three years ago. As a result, I can eat a lot more seasonal vegetables and get a keen sense of their deliciousness. And especially after I had my child, I experienced firsthand how the combination of rice, miso soup, and nukazuke are really good for your body.”

Nukazuke is an all-purpose side dish that can be enjoyed many ways

Nukadoko have an image of being difficult to maintain. Shioyama explains that she wants to make it easier for people to integrate nukadoko into their lives.

“It’s interesting that the flavor the nukadoko produces changes depending on how you look after it. You just can’t abandon the nukadoko, but you shouldn’t fiddle with it too much either. I say that you should try a nukadoko without overthinking it, and should you fail, you can always make another one. Making a nukadoko is quite easy, and I should know because I’ve definitely messed up before.”

June is a good time to start making nukazuke, as the fermentation process progresses quickly and plenty of summer vegetables are available. The basic upkeep is to stir up the nukadoko from the bottom every day. During hot spells in the summer, it’s best to store your nukadoko in the vegetable compartment of your refrigerator.

“It’s fun raising your nukadoko, as you can add more bran whenever you want and put in additional ingredients to produce umami. I recommend pickling several types of vegetables together, as this gives the nukadoko more depth than if you just pickle one type of vegetable.”

Shioyama not only eats nukazuke raw; she also uses them in her cooking. Because it offers so many variations, making nukazuke becomes more worthwhile and you are less likely to get tired of eating them.

“Just altering how you slice them changes their texture and taste. Recently, I’ve gotten into cutting nukazuke into thin strips and using them in pork shabu-shabu salad. I also chop them up and use them in fried rice or soups or toss them with avocado. And it’s a good way to use up nukazuke that have been pickled for too long. The combination of cheese and nukazuke is amazing, probably because they are both fermented foods.”

Nukazuke harness the power of fermentation to deliciously transform seasonal vegetables. Why not try cultivating your own favorite flavors?