Utensils and Tableware in One: The Beauty of the Practical

Feb 12,2015

The distinctive look of stainless steel

Along with his ironware, Takayoshi’s series of stainless-steel items is also popular.
“I started making them because I figured that stainless steel was more versatile than iron, though some pieces can’t be used over an open flame. I figured they would go well with various types of cuisine. Generally speaking, stainless-steel wares tend to be bright and gleaming, but that metallic look doesn’t appeal to me. So I burn the surface with coke to give it more texture, and wash it with acid for a matte finish.”

Sure enough, Takayoshi’s stainless-steel wares have a distinctive feel and appearance. Because of their dull color, moreover, they doubtless suit a wide variety of cuisine.

“They go really well with just about anything — ethnic dishes, Japanese food, or whatever,” says Aya. A great idea for summer is to chill them. “Once, at the suggestion of a culinary expert, I chilled some of these stainless-steel dishes and served ice cream in them. It was a new and wonderful taste experience. Ideas like this for putting stainless steel to good use are well worth trying.”

Bringing a meal to the table exactly as the chef conceived it

This talk made me eager to see Takayoshi’s frying pans and dishes in action. I therefore asked him to fix up a meal for us.

“Some people worry that food will stick more easily to an iron pan than to a Teflon-coated pan, but that’s not the case,” says Aya. “The trick is to properly warm the pan to the right temperature when using it.”

Takayoshi’s pans looked so easy to use as he prepared an omelet and gyoza with graceful, practiced movements. They make food taste better because they conduct heat well. And here’s some advice on caring for them.

“Don’t shut them away in the cupboard. Use them every day. When storing them, you can hang them on the wall. They’ll dry naturally that way and be less susceptible to rusting. Tableware and utensils aren’t much good if you don’t use them. Using them brings out their luster and beauty, making them a pleasure to work with.”

The food was served steaming hot, and I found myself smacking my lips.
“Some folks worry that ironware might look out of place on the dining table,” said Takayoshi, “but I’m happy to say that people are increasingly flexible these days about how they use it.”

Narita Takayoshi’s creations serve as both utensils that fit snuggly in the hand and tableware items that add elegance to the dining table. They let a meal be brought to the table exactly as the chef conceived it, while creating a warm ambience. What better treat could there be than that?

Natsutsubaki

Natsutsubaki

Address:
3-6-20 Sakura, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
TEL:
03-5799-4696
Opening hours:
12:00–7:00 p.m.
Closed:
Mondays and Tuesdays (except on national holidays and during special exhibitions)
URL:
http://www.natsutsubaki.com/

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