People in every part of the world have developed clever ways to preserve food to avoid wasting valuable produce and in preparation for seasons when fresh food is scarce and for unforeseen events.
Fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood, meat, and other perishable foodstuffs are turned into preserves using a variety of techniques, such as fermenting, drying, and smoking. Through these means, preserves come to embody the food culture of a region or nation.
This series is a journey that explores the mastery of preserves and the wisdom of everyday living, which form the foundation of food cultures. In Part 10, we interviewed Hirota Yuki, an expert in dried vegetables and operator of a cookware store, about the appeal of dried veggies.
▶Part 9: Pick Up Preserves from Around the Country in Tokyo — Murakara Machikara Kan, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
One bite and the delectability of dried vegetables will win you over
I can’t believe vegetables become this sweet just by drying them. A single bite of a lightly sautéed dried carrot, and a whole new world opened up before my eyes.
It was, unquestionably, like a bolt from a clear sky. With a firm and crunchy texture, the more you chew the carrot, the more the flavor comes through and the more the sweetness blooms and fills your entire mouth. Strangely enough, that particular woody, raw taste carrots have had disappeared, leaving what tasted like sweets.
“I’m thrilled when people notice the difference. It’s the sun’s grace and generosity alone that makes the vegetables this delicious.”
Hirota was born into a family operating a cookware store in Tokyo’s Tsukiji district, and she now runs the store as the third generation in the family business. At the same time, she has used her development of original made-in-Japan drying baskets as a springboard to spread the message about the goodness of dried veggies through seminars, books, and blogging. She quickly ran through seven benefits of dried vegetables.
•Dried veggies have a sweeter and richer taste — removing the moisture content results in a higher concentration of the vegetable’s natural umami.
•They are easy to store and delicious to eat — they can be stored for a few days in a refrigerator, and even longer frozen, and still retain their flavor.
•They save time when cooking — dried veggies heat up quickly without becoming watery.
•There is no waste because you can eat the entire vegetable — you can even eat the skin, stems, and stalks.
•The sun’s energy will rejuvenate you — waking up in the morning and looking up at the sky puts you in a good mood.
•You can savor the joy of a harvest — experience the fun and enjoyment of bringing in finished dried vegetables in the evening.
•The vegetables are firm and chewy, so a small amount fills you up — dried vegetables just might help you lose weight.
Carrots, daikon radishes, turnips, and other root vegetables are ideal for beginners because the difference after drying is unmistakable. The differences in flavor are also very noticeable after drying leafy greens such as napa cabbage, onions, and cabbage as well as fruits and vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, and eggplants. Mushrooms, fruits, and herbs also taste better when dried.
“When the weather is fine, I get up a little earlier than normal to slice up vegetables and let them dry in the sun for a few hours or even the whole day. This simple preparation before going to work or school can add so much more enjoyment and variety to your diet. I’ve never really been praised for my cooking, but when I started cooking with dried veggies, people began telling me I’m a good cook. [laughs]”
Hirota first became aware of dried vegetables seven years ago, after going to help a farmer harvest a large amount of cherry tomatoes.
“When I looked up how to preserve cherry tomatoes, I found jams and cooking in oil to be the most common methods. But I’m not fond of oily or sweet foods, so I decided to try simply drying them. To my great surprise, when I sampled a little, they were absolutely delicious.”
After this, Hirota developed made-in-Japan drying baskets that are both stylish and practical to use. She has been on a crusade ever since to spread the word about dried veggies and promote her original drying baskets. Forging a new path begins with the tools. She is certainly living up to her name as a third-generation cookware dealer.
Bringing the flavor of dried vegetables to the world
By cutting dried vegetables in different ways, you can enjoy different textures. Take asparagus for example. If you slice them with a knife, they become a perfect part of a stir-fry or soup. If you cut them lengthwise, they become an ingredient for simmered or grilled dishes. And today, Hirota uses a peeler to shave asparagus into thin strings and tosses them in a pot of boiling pasta just 30 seconds before the pasta is done. The result is an enjoyable crisp, firm texture with all the umami of asparagus.
“Peeled asparagus also tastes delicious boiled and seasoned. Many kids don’t like carrots or celery (or green peppers). But when you dry them, the woody, raw taste disappears and they are more palatable for kids. Even my late grandmother, who staunchly hated vegetables, told me with a smile that my dried vegetables were delicious.”
Hirota’s efforts to promote dried veggies are not limited to Japan.
“Three and a half years ago, I went to the U.S. and opened a branch of Tsukji Hitachi-ya in Los Angeles to promote durable Japanese cookware to more people. I hold classes on dried vegetables several times a year.”
California is world-famous for dried fruits. The strong sunshine and dry air make it an excellent place for drying foodstuffs. Dried vegetables are sure to spread there as well.
“[Both in Japan and abroad,] it still seems that few households actually prepare their own dried vegetables. My hope is that, through my efforts, I can get more people and families to love dried veggies and appreciate the sun.”
▶Part 9: Pick Up Preserves from Around the Country in Tokyo — Murakara Machikara Kan, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
